Katima Mulilo March/April 2017 (Taking the Hilux up)

Katima Mulilo March/April 2017 (Taking the Hilux up)

Well, after the Jeep had busted the cam belt and I had collected it from Mongu it left Elizabeth without a vehicle.

So, having been retrenched from my employment, I was not in any kind of position to contribute, or purchase a vehicle for her. 

She works as a missionary at the Zambia Project.

Extract from the Zambia Project Website - "Thousands of people living in the Western Province of Zambia have never heard the name of Jesus. Because of this, these people live in desperate circumstances, without hope and in spiritual darkness! We, the Zambia Project, take the Gospel to where it has not yet been heard in Western Zambia and endeavor to uplift communities through various initiatives.

This province is a vast, sparsely populated, very poor area with little infrastructure. To try and explain the remoteness of the area we work in to our Western ways of thinking, we can use the following fact: there are roughly 1 million people living in Western Zambia and less than 1% have a flushing toilet. Most communities do not have a continuous source of safe drinking water. Countless children are dying from malnutrition and majority of people have never had access to any form of medical care. The literacy levels in the rural communities are lower than 8%. HIV/Aids, Malaria and TB have left many widows and orphans in vulnerable situations with no food and shelter.

Due to the adverse circumstances and cultural obstacles of working in this area missionary efforts of the past have been restricted. Many faithful missionaries like David Livingstone laid down their lives looking forward to the day when the people living in Zambia’s Western Province would open their hearts to God. Today is that day! Where others have sown with their lives our team now has the opportunity to reap – the harvest is finally ripe! The people are ready to accept the message of hope and redemption. Now is the time to spread out our nets for a great catch. We trust that this website will enable you to partner with us to achieve this awesome task!"

Elizabeth's sending church is Church Alive - Johannesburg. Soon after returning to Johannesburg with the broken Jeep, Paster Johan made an appeal to the congregation that Elizabeth required a vehicle suitable for bush travel in Zambia. Elizabeth was flying down to South Africa in order to attend an Assemblies of God conference in Cape Town. She would be spending a few days in Johannesburg.

So, without having any funds for a vehicle, Elizabeth and I started looking around. The only real requirement was that it had to be a Toyota Hilux, be a double cab and be 4x4. We searched the internet and found a few vehicles. Some that we did see were is shocking condition (and for sale at "reputable" Toyota dealers). With Johan's appeal some ZAR 28000.00 had come in from the congregation. We did see a vehicle in Pretoria which was ideal for the requirement. 4x4, long range tank, replacement bumpers front and back, draw system, 6 new tyers, seat covers, and so on. But we did not have the funds. Prayer works ! Elizabeth received a call, while we were looking at the Hilux and was informed by the church secretary that an anonymous doner had just called and advised that they would contribute any amount still outstanding for a suitable vehicle. Wow !!!

It was decided to take the Hilux. This was on a Friday afternoon, and the funds were duly paid into the sellers account and we collected the Hilux on the Saturday afternoon. On the Sunday it was "on show" at Church Alive for the congregation to see.

It was almost bush ready

However, when at the Church we were asked, "where is the fridge ?"

So one of the congregation paid for a fridge for Elizabeth, together with a dual battery system. I also put in a 75l water tank, light and power take off points as well as 2 additional Jerry can holders and a roof rack (which we had transferred from the Jeep).

It was then bush ready and ready to be driven up to Mongu.

However, by this time, Elizabeth had returned to Zambia after the AOG conference. This meant that Sue and I would have to drive the vehicle up. But, I was not in the mood for Zambia, in addition Elizabeth would need the insurance etc in her name. So it was decided that Sue and I would travel up to Katima Mulilo and Elizabeth and two of her friends would drive down. The plan was made !

We decided to camp on this trip, as the cost of self catering was just too much. So I had my off-road trailer serviced and we were ready to go. I would drive the Chevrolet pulling the off road trailer and Sue would drive the Hilux.

Our trip would entail one night at a campsite just outside Lephelala, one night at Nata Lodge campsite and then onto Katima.

So we left Johannesburg and traveled up to Lephelala,. The trip was uneventful and all progressed without any issues. The campsite was Matamba Bush Camp. Its located on a game farm and extremely peaceful. The owner met us at the gate (after we called him from the nearest town, as arranged) and took us to the campsite. It looked great and we were the only residents for that night. So, we practically had a private ablution, which ablution was stunning. In addition I also had a swim in the pool, as it was quiet warm. The area was extremely dry.

The next morning we packed up and traveled to Nata, via the Stockpoort border post. This nice small border post is always easy and the staff are extremely friendly. Just don't take any fruit or fresh vegetables into Botswana. The confiscate then because of South African fruit flies (guess they don't just fly across the border).

The dirt road from the Stockpoort border post was, as usual, very good. Again, except for the cow dung !!!

We stopped off at the Wimpy at Palapye for a early lunch. This time, the service was actually quiet good and the lunch enjoyable.

Next stop was Nata Lodge. However, the road condition had deteriorated and the potholes, between Francistown and Nata, were diabolical. The holes were huge. At times you could not travel more than 20 kmph and you needed to concentrate all the time. It took us 11 hours to reach Nata.

Then on arriving at Nata Lodge, we found it closed. Closed due to flooding, was the sign at the entrance (on our return trip we found out that the water had been 1m deep in the restaurant and bar area of Nata lodge. Now that's a heck of a load of water!!). So we could not camp there. However, luckily I remembered another lodge just up the road, called Pelican Lodge - Nata. We pulled in there. I decided, to heck with it, take a room. So we checked into one of their rooms. It was very good. I took a walk up to their camping sites and found, to my surprise, that they all had private ablutions and electric power.. They looked good.

The Hilux was still going well !

The campsites at Pelican Lodge

The next morning it was onto Katima Mulilo, passing through Kasane. This portion of the road was in good condition, so we made reasonable progress. Just after Kasane, you need to "check into" the logbook for the Chobe Corridor.

Thereafter its onto the border crossing into Namibia. We had no issues at the Botswana side. But the follow at the Namibian side was very rude and obviously did not like his job.

From there is was a short drive to Katima.

Elizabeth called just after we crossed into Namibia and advised that the lady at Namwi Island resort had advised her that the road was follded. But it was still drivabel.

We progressed to the dirt road to Nasmwi Island resort and a short way down the road came across a flooded section. There was a local Namibian, in a ordinary car, stuck in the middle. We would have made it through with the Hilux, Chev and off road trailer, but Elizabeth and her friends were in a normal vehicle. 

Does not look tool bad in the picture ! However, we decided to continue. through and had no issues.

A short way further down the road it disappeared into the flooding Zambezi river.  We made a call that the Hilux and Chev could be ok, as they had made a track through the bush which we could have used. But the Zambian vehicle would not have made it.

So, its 16h00 and we now have nowhere to stay. Luckily we had seen a sign to a resort called Island View. We looked them up on the internet (luckily we had roaming and a connection/signal). They advised that they were open and we could get to them, but just not through the normal road to their reception, as that too was flooded. But they had a back entrance that was ok.

We turned around and headed for Island View Lodge. The road was to be a 25km dirt road. However, it had been "raised" and was therefore not flooded. There was plenty of water on both sides of the road, but in general the road was good. They were still building/constructing in sections, but it was manageable. On arriving at Island View lodge we found very nice managers and they were extremely kind to us. We set up the camping trailer under some lovely trees in the shade and plugged into the electric power points. We were sorted and comfortable.

The girls arrived a little later, from Zambia, and we had a good few days.

The lodge is on a offshoot of the Zambezi and that is the reason for the island. So, the island is viewabel from the lodge, hence the name of the lodge.

The Zambezi was extremely full and in full flood. Hence the water we had seen on the various roads and on the way to Island View.

One one of the afternoons we decided to take a boat trip to view the Zambezi proper. So we boarded one of the resort boats, had a very nice skipper and set off. We were all blown away with how big the Zambezi is when in flood. It was amazing !!!

Island view was truly an amazing place and if we camp in Namibia Katima again, it will be here.

All too soon it was time for us to head home and for Elizabeth to take the Hilux up to Zambia. 

Its being put to good use up there already.

Elizabeth runs an intern program at the Zambia Project and she uses the vehicle to take them into the bush for outreach and church planting.

So, then it was just the two of us again. We were headed back to Kasane and would be staying at Senyati Safari Camp Botswana.

We crossed into Botswana after exiting the Namibian border, with no issues.

In the Chobe corridor we only did see a few Giraffe,

Our plans had changed and we were to be arriving at Senyati one day earlier than originally booked. I had book and paid the full price/value for two nights camping at Senyati and had received the confirmation.

As I knew our plans were changing, I sent Senyati an e-mail while we were still camping at Island View Lodge in Katima. I had no response from them. I assumed all would be in order.

Well..........I parked in the reception parking and went into the reception. The first welcome was.You have arrived a day early and will have to pay again. We don't allow any changes to reservations and what did our mail say. 

Well, I was taken back. Firstly I did not receive any reply to my mail (I still have not received any reply or further communication from Senyati.)  I explained that I had not received a response from them and that I would still like to stay the two nights for which I had paid the full amount. The response was well, you will have to stay one night in one campsite and then move for the second night. I really did not want to have to do that.

And they were not even full.

So, the reception lady called the owners daughter who was also totally off hand. They gave me two options, one, move after one night or take a different site for the 2 nights. I asked if the "other" site had shade and the response was "I don't know if the trees are still alive". Anyway, I went and had a look at the "other" site and we decided to take that. I went back to reception and informed the unpleasant lady that I was taking the "other" site. She said fine. (remember I had paid 100% of the asking price) I left reception and we set up our camp.

Each camp has a private ablution and the hot water is heated via a "donkey". Its very nice, but the place seems to be getting a little neglected.

The camp has a waterhole and Elephant usually come down each evening to drink.

While we were at Senyati, one day, I felt the trailer moving and some items inside rattling. Wondered what was going on and our neighbor said he thought someone was kicking his chair. It turned out to be an earthquake which had hit Botswana. Botswana-rocked-by-earthquake - aftershocks-felt-in-South-Africa. Luckily we were all ok.

After our 2 nights there we packed up and headed for Francistown. We were camping in Francistown for the next evening. On the way to Francistown, the Senyati friendly reception lady called and accused me of leaving without paying. She was extremely rude on the phone. When we got to Francistown I called them and said that they should check their records and that I had (as I have also provided proof on arrival, as I always keep copies of such payments), as shown to them on arrival, paid the full 100% via Safari Now, She slammed the phone down. They did not bother to call back. Sue called them, one more time, and reception said they had checked and it seemed to be ok.

Absolutely no apology was provided. She was still extremely rude on the phone.

Our stay at Cresta Marang Gardens Hotel Francistown, camping, was great. They have extremely friendly staff and the ablutions are also very nice. There is electric power and plenty of shade.

When I returned home I sent them a nice mail asking for an apology. My mail was not even acknowledged and there has been absolutely no communication from Senyati. I also advised Safari Now and they also sent a mail to Senyati, which has also not being responded to.

Collecting the Jeep - Mongu and Botswana

Collecting the Jeep - Mongu and Botswana

So, during our trip up to Mongu in January 2017, Elizabeth's Jeep snapped a cam / timing belt. Luckily it snapped at the base in Mongu Zambia, so there was no need to tow it anywhere (at that point!).

But, the bad news was that it could not get repaired in Mongu.

The options were - 

• remove the engine and send it to Lusaka 
• send it to South Africa,
• or have the Jeep transported back to Johannesburg for the repairs.

We opted for the Johannesburg route.

However, my wife and I were up in Mongu and I already had a Venter trailer with us. So, the recovery would entail us getting back to Johannesburg, hiring a vehicle trailer and going back up to Mongu to collect the Jeep. Quiet a mission.

Anyway, we decided not to panic and to continue with our planned Mongu trip and the journey back to Johannesburg.

So, when we got back to Johannesburg I really did not feel like jumping in the car and travelling all the way back to Mongu. I had decided to leave the return for a few months. However, the prospect of a job (which did not materialize) had me changing plans and arranging to go back sooner rather than later.

I could only find one place where they were prepared to rent me a car trailer where they would allow the trailer to cross the border into a foreign country. I had to cross into three foreign countries (Botswana, Namibia and Zambia).

In addition, I did not feel like travelling on my own, so luckily my Dad (85 years of age) decided to travel up with me. He is in excellent health.

The trip would up we would be staying at Francistown, Kasane and Mongu and then back down staying at Kasane, Francistown and Lephelala. I decided to take an extra day on the way back due to the heavy load of the Jeep on the trailer.

So, we left Johannesburg early and headed for Francistown. I had decided to go through the Stockpoort border post, because its much quieter (trucks are not allowed). The trip was good and we had no issues with the trailer.

The Stockpoort border post was a pleasure and the people there are always very friendly and pleasant. That goes for both the RSA as well as the Botswana side.

The road from Stockpoort into Botswana is a dirt road. However, its graded and was not an issue, except for cows crapping on the road. It seems to be their favorite place to dung it !

We were staying at Tati River Lodge  in Francistown. The accommodation was great and I could park outside the room. We also had dinner there and the meal was enjoyable. However, my dad decided to have filet steak, which was not really filet, but was edible.

From Francistown we were travelling onto a camp just outside of Kasane.
However the road, if you can call it that, was in a shocking state and the potholes were huge. In places the road was nonexistent.
The establishment is called Senyati Safari Camp Botswana. I had booked a chalet here and we were hoping that we would be able to see the waterhole from the chalet.
Well, I had made a mistake with the booking and booked for the previous night. However, luckily for us, they were not full and provided us with the chalet.
The reception staff were very friendly and accommodating, this time. (on a trip later in the year with my wife, they were downright rude and unpleasant and in fact insulting)
We had an amazing chalet, full kitchen, bedroom with two twin beds, full shower, aircon and even an outside bath.

We did not try the bath ! Perhaps next time.
But, from the porch of the chalet (there are a few chairs and a table) we had a perfect view of the waterhole. So, over a whiskey and a glass of wine, we watched the elephants having a drink. We also did see a herd of buffalo. Was a fantastic evening. had a braai in the braai at the chalet.

The next morning we departed and were heading for Mongu. That entailed crossing into Namibia and Zambia.
Both border crossings went well and we had no issues.
However, if you are going into Zambia with a car and trailer, make sure to get two disks for the insurance. They wrote mine on one. More about that later.

One good thing about the route from the Zambian border to Mongu is that the bridge over the Zambezi is now completed, so no more having to wait for the pontoon.

We arrived in Mongu early afternoon at The Zambia Project - Village Of Hope Mongu.
We had two of their rooms/chalets for the duration of our stay. These were very nice and have a shower, bed, mosquito net, toilet and a small kitchen area. Power is provided, when Zambian Electricity comes to the party. We were both very comfortable.

We did not rush at getting the Jeep onto the trailer. We had a few days in Mongu and took a drive out onto the new road over the floodplain. This flood plain is known as the Zambezi or, its correct name, the Barotse Floodplain. Its very impressive and you drive for 25km across the floodplain before getting to the actual Zambezi river. (and that's just one side of the floodplain.)

(Above photo and below explanations taken from Wikipedia website.)
NASA satellite photograph showing the Barotse Floodplain as the bright green to dark blue central region. 1 The Zambezi flowing north to south through the middle of the floodplain; 2 confluence of (left to right) the Lungwebungu, Southern Kashiji, Zambezi and Kabompo Rivers, marking the start of the floodplain; 3 end of the floodplain south of Senanga; 4 Ngonye Falls on the Zambezi; 5 Mongu, capital of Barotseland; 6 Lealui, seat of the Litunga on the floodplain; 7 Limulunga, seat of the Litunga during the flood; 8 swamps and floodplain of the Lungwebungu; 9 the Kabompo drains an area of Cryptosepalum dry forest; 10Luena Flats (floodplain); 11 Luanginga River floodplain near Kalabo; 12 Lui River with narrow floodplain; 13 a broad floodplain which carries overspill from high floods of the Cuando River in Angola; 14 Cuando river and floodplain, on the border between Angola and Zambia; 15Liuwa Plain National Park; 16 The flat sandy Central Zambezian Miombo woodland west of Mongu features many pans; 17 Sioma Ngwezi National Park.^[1]

The river was not too full during our visit. The rains in Angola and above send the water down the Zambezi. (it did get very flooded after we visited).

Then, it was the task of getting the Jeep onto the trailer. This was quiet a job, as we could not start the Jeep. So Elizabeth summoned 10 or so fellow Zambia Project friends and we pushed and shoved. Eventually, the Jeep crested the trailer summit and was on.
I then had the job of securing the Jeep to ensure that it did not bounce off the trailer.
I had brought quiet a few ropes and tie ratchet goodies with me, so was quiet confident that the Jeep would not move.

That was hard work, so later in the afternoon my dad and I settled down for a cold one !

The next morning we pulled out from Mongu early as I wanted to get to Kasane just about lunch time.
On our way, we were stopped by a fellow in a very old and dilapidated bakkie. These fellows turned out to be the local traffic police. They wanted to check my Zambian Insurance. So I produced the slip of paper and pointed to the disk which I had stuck onto the front windscreen.
They said that there had to be two disks. One for the car and one for the trailer. Even though I had paid for both and the insurance people at the border post had written both registration numbers onto the one disk, he said NO. There have to be two. The fine was 900 Zambian Kwacha. I did not have that much cash. I showed him that I only had 300 Kwacha. So he said, well, have to fine you something, so will make it 300 Kwacha. He duly completed and handed me an official receipt and I parted with the 300 Kwacha.

Then it was onto the border.

At the border, we were still early, there was hardly anyone. I was pleased to see no queue and we progressed through passport control with no issues at all.

However, the Jeep !
As it had been in Zambia for almost two years, it had a TIP (temporary import permit). So this necessitated checking the system and booking/logging the Jeep out of Zambia. Sounded like a simple process to me !

For this process you have to have an agent !

So I called Elizabeth and she put me in touch with the agent who had arranged the TIP for her. A very nice fellow indeed. However, there was a cost to this of 750 Kwacha (a processing fee) - luckily there is an ATM at the border..
Also, the system was down (broken!!). So we were told, wait for the system. It was still 09h00, so I was happy to wait a while.

At about 11h00 the agent informed us that the system was up, but extremely slow. So he was going home (he assure me a short way from the border) as he had much better signal at home and could log into the system. At 12h45 he was not back and I could not raise him on the phone. To make matters worse, he had the car papers. I found the Border Post Manager, but he said its lunch time, come back to him at 14h00. At 14h00 I went back to him and advised him of my problem. He said, the systems UP. I called the agent, and he came back from his home.
Well, the simple process took another three hours to finalize. The issue was that I had a booking in Kasane and the Botswana border post closed at 18h00. It was now 17h00 and I was still in Zambia, Still had to cross into Namibia, out of Namibia and into Botswana, also driving 85km's to get to the Botswana border (and I had a Jeep on a trailer and dodgy roads).
I had the necessary forms from the agent. To print a receipt for the payment entailed the agent opening his laptop (in his car), connecting and starting a portable printer and then printing the form. I did not have the time, so told him if he wanted payment he had better meet me at the Namibian border with the receipt.

As I was about tio leave the Namibian border (after paying the road tax and havuing our passports stamped) the agent arrived with the receipt. I gave him the cash.

We then had to navigate Katima Mulilo and head for the Botswana border. Well we made it through into Botswana at 17h58. Just in time.

But now it was getting dark and the road to Senyati is sandy. However, we made it there and we were given the same chalet again. So had an enjoyable evening watching the elephants at the waterhole. The Jeep was still on the trailer and had not moved.

We could not braai, as you cannot bring meat from Namibia into Botswana (and it was too late to stop and shop in Kasane). So I made a concoction of goodies which turned out ok.

The next day it was a slow drive on very bad potholed roads to Fransistown. On the way we stopped off at Nata Lodge for an early lunch.(that was just 2 days before Nata Lodge was closed due to flooding),
We again stayed at Tati River Lodge and we had the exact same room as we did on the way up. Again I was able to park outside the room.

After a very nice breakfast we headed for Lephelala and the Palm Park Hotel.

This was the homeward leg of the trip. I had decided to go through Stockpoort again. However as we neared Palapye in Botswana the heavens opened and it looked as if it was going to rain for a few days. Turned out it was the tail end of some cyclone. So instead of taking the trailer with the Jeep on a muddy dirt road, we decided to stick to the tar and go through Martins Drift. It was ok.

The Palm Park Hotel is a very nice hotel and we had a huge room overlooking a very green garden. Dinner was had at the hotels Ocean Basked restaurant and it was enjoyable.

Finally, we made it home and the Jeep was safely back in Johannesburg.

My Chevrolet was a little dirty after the trip so I decided to have it washed professionally.

 Then it was, what to do with the Jeep !
We decided to fix the cam belt and sell the Jeep.
I took it to Car Service City Clearwater Shop 11, Clearwater Crossing, New Century Avenue, Strubens Valley (Behind Makro). The fellow there repaired the Jeep, as well as replacing the front suspension coil springs and all the bushes. It rode and sounded fantastic when it came back.
I then put the Jeep onto OLX and it sold in 5 days.