Mongu Jan 2017 - Botswana, Namibia and Zambia
Its January, so it was time to head back up to Mongu in Zambia, to accompany our daughter on her trip back to her home at Village of Hope, Mongu. (http://zam.co.za)
We left home early morning on Saturday 14 January 2017. I was driving my Chevrolet Trailblazer, towing a Venter Bush Baby trailer and Elizabeth was driving her Jeep.
We had decided to take the smaller border past of Stockpoort - Pars Halt. This is close to the big Martins Drift border post, but its a lot quieter. In fact, we were the only people and vehicles that the border crossing and it was a real pleasure.
The process was completed quickly and we were through the formalities easily.
The only issue was at the Botswana side, where they asked if we had any fruit. We had apples. These were not allowed as the Botswana officials advised that South Africa has fruit flies, and these are not wanted in their country. So we had to hand over the two packets of apples.
From the border there is a 50 km dirt/gravel road before joining the tar again. This road is in excellent condition and is, in fact, graded by the Botswana roads department, regularly. It was a pleasure to drive.
We did have some heavy rain while on the dirt road, but it did not cause any problems.
We joined the mail road up to Francistown and Kasane without any issues.
Our first night was t be in Francistown. We have stayed in Francistown many times before, but this time we had decided to stay somewhere different and had chosen the Cresta Marang Gardens hotel and camp site (http://www.crestahotels.com/rooms/cresta-marang-francistown/). This hotel is located alongside the Tati river, just on the outskirts of Francistown. It turned out to be a great choice. We were the only campers and were able to pitch our tents on the lovely green grass. The ablution facilities were first class and there was plenty of hot water for the showers. The ablutions were also cleaned often. There is electric power as well as free standing braai's.
The next morning we mad an early start as we were planning on travelling through to the Kabula Tiger Lodge in Zambia. However, we were tired when we arrived in Kasane so decided to stay the night there.
In Francistown they are busy with major road works. This causes delays, so we took a detour through the industrial area and bypassed the roadworks. We filled up with diesel (which is BWP7.20 a L. Even converted to ZAR that works out at under R10 a L). The majority of the road up to Kasane is on a good condition. However due to the number of heavy/large trucks using the route up into Africa, it is deteriorating quickly. The worst parts are just around Nata, where there are some severe potholes. You need to be wide awake on this section of the road.
We did not stop in at Nata lodge and decided to push on to Kasane. In Kasane we stopped at the Boat House for lunch. This is a very nice B&B and they have a great restaurant near the river.
After a late lunch (it was already after 3pm when we left the Boat House) we debated pushing on to Katima or staying in Kasane. We decided to stay in Kasane.
We had camped and stayed in B&B accommodation is Kasane on numerous occasions, previously. This time we were camping. So we decided that we would stay at Chobe Safari Lodge campsite.
Their website http://www.chobesafarilodge.net/ has the following comment regarding the campsite :"The campsite at the Chobe River Lodge sprawls along the banks of the Chobe River and offers excellent ablution facilities. Each site has its own power point and the camp is designed in such a way that you are always near to the ablution facilities."
I'm not sure that I would totally agree. We were some way from the river and could not get a view of the river from our campsite. Its not a first come first select basis and we were advised of 4 sites from which we could select. The others were all occupied, or going to be occupied that evening. Well, no one else arrived. The ablution facilities are unisex, in that male and female use the same facilities, with no separate places to change. We found this a little strange. However, there was power and shade, but no grass at all. In my opinion there are better campsites in and around Kasane.
The next day was going to be a long one, again. This included crossing from Botswana into Namibia, then from Namibia into Zambia. We had decided not to take the Kazangulu ferry, but travel via Katima Mulilo to Zambia.
As we arrived at the Botswana border the heavens opened and there was a mini flood. But, the officials were very efficient and pleasant. We exited Botswana with no problems at all. Entry into Namibia was not as smooth. The immigration official objected to one person standing to close to the counter and a shouting match erupted. In addition, he is also the only official for both in and out procedures. So, he just walked over the the other side and assisted those exiting Namibia. We were left to wait for a while. On his return to assist our queue, he was not in a happy or good mood. But we got through.
For Namibia you have to complete a entry/exit form (the same form) as well as a road levy form. Then you have to pay a road levy for both the car and the trailer. This done you are able to leave the building and make your way, in your vehicle, to the gate. Here they check the road levy papers and you have to write the car details into a register (who knows what the actually do with the register.)
Anyway, we were finally on our way and could travel the 100 odd kilometers to Katima before having to exit Namibia. Exit was ok and we were stamped and through in no time.
Then, comes the Zambian border post. Oh my gosh. First, there are loads of trucks parked all; over the place. Then, you have to pay in USD and also in Zambian Kwacha. You can only purchase the Kwacha at the border. Its not available in South Africa or Namibia. In order to purchase this, there are loads, and I mean loads, of currency brokers who run after your vehicle. You need to have ZAR to exchange and you need to know the exchange rate. They will negotiate with you, up to a point. Then there are a few armed police who watch the proceedings and will come over to ensure that you are OK and not getting ripped off.
Once you have the USD and the Kwatcha, you then drive to the parking area. This area is normally totally full with abandoned and "lost" vehicles and trucks. You find a park and enter the building. Once inside (the officials are very friendly) you need to go to 4 separate counters. Only problem is that they are not numbered and you have to guess, or ask, where to start.
Counter 1 is to stamp your passport.
Counter 2 is for the carbon tax
Counter 3 is for the insurance
and lastly counter 4 is for the road levy (paid only in USD).
You have to keep all the paperwork as its checked by a 5th official, but he's outside.
The insurance disk has to be stuck onto your front windscreen before you leave the parking area.
As you leave the parking area, you are stopped at anther gate. This time its for local council tax for Sesheke. Here you pay in kwacha for the car and the trailer. An official receipt is issued.
Then, you drive a little further and have to stop at the border gate. Here an official checks all your documents and you get to write your vehicle details into a register, again. Only if he is happy with everything, you get to leave the border area.
This time around, I have a problem with the USD road levy form. It did not have my trailer registration number printed on it. So, I was to go back to the border building and get that sorted. The official merely wrote the number on the form and stamped it again.
Thereafter, everyone was happy and we were able to progress.
The road from the border is now tarred, all the way to Mongu.
In addition, there is now a bridge over the Zambezi, so the pontoon is no longer used.
This road is in great condition and we were soon in Mongu - but along the way you are stopped at the "toll" and have to pay 65 kwacha for local council tax ( a different council this time). An official receipt is issued). Strange thing is that if its lunch time, too early or late in the day, the gate is open and the official "missing" from the toll booth. On our return home, it was to early and he was not there!!
Anyway, we finally arrived in Mongu.
Here, at the Village of Hope we were to be camping. They do have some chalet type accommodation, but these were all occupied due to the Bible translation program which was underway.
We know this prior to our arrival and were fully equipped to camp for a week. (as a matter of interest the campsite is now closed to the general public and only used for mission teams and staff family).
We selected a great site, with power and loads of shade. Don't know why we bothered with the shade, as it railed every day that we were there.
However, we had come prepared to paint Elizabeth's bedroom, as well as put up some shelving on the walls etc. This turned out to be successful and her room is looking good.
There is now also a new Shoprite in Mongu and it makes the shopping experience pleasant. You can get most things there now.
Whilst there was went down onto the Barotse Floodplain. According to Wikipedia, this is one of Africa's great flood plains (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barotse_Floodplain) It really is impressive and is over 100km wide in most places.
Where there was a dirt sodden track across the floodplain and a pontoon across the Zambezi, there is now a tarred road with many bridges. One waits to see if the river will "reclaim" the floodplain one day !
The Zambezi is a mighty African river. There is also the little Zambezi, where the river splits in the floodplain.
We had a great time in Mongu and all too soon it was time to start the homeward bound journey.
The day before we were leaving the Jeep snapped a cam belt. More about that in another blog.
We left Mongu, after having got up at 5am and packed the tent away, at 6am. The journey down to the Zambian border was easy and without problem.
Exiting Zambia was easy and we were through in 10 minutes. The Namibian enter, however, was not good. The queue of people waiting top get into the passport area stretched around the block.
First of a ll you have to know that you need to go to a tent and sit on a chair. Here someone will take your temperature to see if you have Ebola or not. If that's ok, you pick up a grubby piece of paper (recycled through the process so handled by loads of other people) which you have to hand in to the passport official, else he wont stamp your passport.
Luckily we were driving, so you can enter the border office and pay for the road tax. After that, you are already inside the building, so can join the passport queue. As a result, for us, it took about 30 minutes to complete the process.
From there we were heading for Kasane and I had booked at Senyati Lodge. However, we first had to exit Namibia and enter Botswana, again. Both these processes were quick. However the official at the Namibian border was rude an not pleasant at all. I found him totally miserable, rude and hating his job.
We progressed through the Chobe corridor, where you have to stop and write your vehicle details into a register, again. (they seem to like the vehicle register in Botswana and Namibia!)
From Kasane, Senyati is another 6 km down the Nata road. They have 2 entrances, one can be used by 4x4 and the otehr by 2x4. They also recommend that if you are towing a trailer you use the 2x4 route. We used the 2x4 route, but found that due to the rail the 4x4 route was absolutly fine. The sand was "hard".
We were blown away by Senyati. http://senyatisafaricampbotswana.com/. The campsites have their own private ablutions, an area to sit (under cover) as well as wash up facilities. Each site has power and a braai.
There was a load of shade and we even found a piece of grass at our site on which to pitch our tent.
Senyati has its own waterhole. The deck and a bar area are raised and are very close to the waterhole.
Each day that we were there we watched elephants at the waterhole.
In addition to elephants, we were visited by Zebra, Giraffe, Spotted Hyena, Black Backed Jackal and loads of birds. It was stunning and fantastic.
From Senyati we also decided to visit Chobe.http://www.botswanatourism.co.bw/destination/chobe-national-park. You have to have a 4x4 to enter the park and this was no issue with the Chevrolet Trailblazer. We had 2 days in Chobe and really enjoyed the time.
Of cause, we had to head home. So we packed up at Senyati (we will be back) and decided to head for Buffalo Thorn Safari Lodge. This is a private lodge just inside South Africa, past the Martins Drift border post. Again, we decided to use the Stockpoort border past and again we were the only people and vehicle there. Our drive was a long one, travelling from Kasane/Chobe area all the way back into South Africa. We arrived at Buffalo Thorn at about 4.30pm.
Buffalo Thorn Safari Lodge http://www.buffalothornsafaris.com/ is a superb place. Beautifully appointed. Fantastic chalets. The boma area is outstanding.
We took a self catering chalet. It had everything that we required (and more).
If you do not want to cater, dinner and breakfast can be arranged and is then cooked by a "private" chef, who does a superb job. We have had both dinner and breakfast at Buffalo thorn on our previous stop overs there.
The next morning it was back home and we arrived in Johannesburg at about 1pm.
Trip Details :
Total KM traveled : 3912 Km
Total Fuel Used : 510.75 L
Average L/100km : 13.06 L/100km
Total Cost of Diesel : ZAR 5,566.02
Average Cost L : ZAR 10.90
Note. Botswana :Diesel is BWP 7.20L, which is ZAR 9.24 on 01 Feb 2017.
South Africa, Diesel is ZAR 13,10
