Namibia August 2015 (part two)

Namibia August 2015 (part two)

In part one, I listed some of our travels from Johannesburg to Namibia and ended at the small town of kamanjab.

This post will include from kamanjab back to Johannesburg.

In kamanjab we stayed at a guest farm (there were a few animals and you can drive around) on a B&B basis. The rooms were alright and the breakfast was very good.

For our evening meal, we went into town and found a lodge called Opi_Koppi. It turned out to be very good (and we returned there on our way back from Epupa Falls as well).

So, from kamanjab the next destination was Epupa Falls. We were advised to purchase our provisions in the next town of Opuwa. but, luckily we had not heeded that advise and purchased all we required form a very well stocked Sentra shop in Kamanjab. We also found a fully stocked butchery there as well.
We arrived in Opuwa and were not impressed. The town was dirty and even the filling station (for fuel) was not a pleasant experience. We did not see any shops which would have met with our approval to purchase anything. We were extremely pleased that we had shopped in kamanjab.
From Opuwa we were back on the dirt roads. While these were not the best (sandy in patches) they were graded and had little corrugations. Our trip to Epupa Falls was uneventful. (except that we stopped along the way for something to drink and noticed a very strange smell. It smelled like stagnant water with something rotting in it !) We did not stay long at the stop and progressed onto Epupa.
On arrival in Epupa we found that we had to drive through the settlement and over a soccer pitch (just sand and stones) to reach our campsite. We were a little apprehensive.
However, on arriving at the campsite we found the staff extremely friendly and helpful. Our campsite was on the river, and each site had its own private ablutions. Separate large shower and toilet "units". Again the water was heated by donkey and we always had hot water. The setting was perfect.

However, on setting up, my brother notices a snake making its way into their Oz tent. Luckily when we banged on the side of the tent it appeared and slithered out of the tent and across the road and under some loose stones. We notified the lodge reception and they took care of the snake. Needless to say my sister in law was not impressed and was not happy sleeping in the tent that night. But, we were in a remote part of Africa.
Needless to say, that foul smell (the stagnant water smell) was with us when we stopped at the campsite and started setting up the tents. I was not impressed and mentioned to my wife that the water in the pools of the river smelled.. But, when I went to move the Chev, it would not start. Totally flat battery !! So, that smell was actually the battery and we were very lucky that it did not explode. But, at Epupa falls and no battery, and the car is automatic. The staff went out of their way to assist and lent me a mobile phone to call two businesses in Opuwa. However, none had the correct size battery. So, plan b, we disconnected the dual battery system and fitted that battery into the car. It was a bit too big, but we made a plan and tied it in. That stayed there until we were back in kamanjab. But, now we had no fridge ! but luckily my brother had a large Snowmaster which had some space in it. We also had the freezer in the trailer nose cone, so all was ok.

Epupa falls were lovely, but the river was a little low. However, we still enjoyed out time there.

So, from Epupa it was back to Kamanjab. It was no good stopping in Opuwa to try and get a battery as we had confirmed, previously, that there was not one available. So, I was hopeful that the small shop and garage in Kamanjab would have a suitable one. We arrived in kamanjab on a Sunday, so on our departure on Monday we stopped at the Sentra, again, and yes, they did have the correct size and configuration battery. The gentleman even assisted in fitting the battery. At least I could connect the fridge again.

So, all rectified and ready to continue.

Our next destination was Etosha. Having never visited Etosha before and having heard so much about this fascinating place, were headed for Halali with great excitement. We had decided to base ourselves at Halali for 5 nights and travel to the two other main camps during our stay. This, in fact, worked out perfectly. We entered Etosha through Ombika gate and headed for Okaukuejo. We had just left the gate when we encountered our first elephant heard, with some buck. Before arriving at Okaukuejo we had also seen our first pride of lions. We were in for a great experience.
During our stay we did see more lions, elephants, loads of birds, giraffe etc.

 Our campsite at Halali was good. Of cause there was loads of dust and sand, but by this time were were used to that. The ablutions were first class. There was a problem with a blocked drain, globes blown and a faulty toilet. However, when I advised the maintenance staff at reception they were at the ablution before I got back to our campsite. They rectified all the item and we had no further problems. I think, basically, as most campers come in late in the day and depart again early the next morning, no one actually advised the maintenance crew. So, problem solved and the rest of the stay was great.

We traveled around the park for 5 glorious days. Some of the roads were extremely corrugated, but generally you are driving slowly anyway.

My brother had the first (and only) puncture of the entire trip in the campsite. We had all the necessary puncture repair goodies, so removed the wheel and plugged the tyre. That worked great and did not leak for the rest of the trip.
In addition, I noticed that the one bolts holding the leaf spring to the chassis of my off road trailer looked skew. On further inspection, I found that it had broken. I had brought with me 4 bolts, a set of wheel bearings and the necessary grease etc to fix any problems with the trailer. So, my brother and I removed the broken bolt and replaced it with a suitable high tensile bolt. That worked perfectly, but  was very lucky that the broken bolt was spotted. It could have caused serious damage if it fell out while towing the trailer.

Anyway, time came to leave Etosha and were were exiting via the gate at Namutoni and driving to Rundu where we were spending the night.

After leaving Etosha, the drive to Rundu was on a good tar road. We had decided that instead of travelling on the dirt road, to go down to Grootfontein and up the B3 to Rundu.
We stayed at a lovely lodge on the banks of the river overlooking Angola.

From Rundu. we drove through the Zambezi (Caprivi) region. The road is really boring if you stay on the main tar road, as we did. However, our next destination was Divundu. We were going to see the Popa falls !! These are not actually falls, but a set of rather small rapids. It was a bit disappointing, to say the least. Anyway, we were there and set about exploring a little.
The guest house in which we stayed had separate rooms, each with shower toilet etc. This was not really a very good selection, but it was comfortable. We ordered a toasted sandwich for lunch and were severely ripped off with the price. But................
They did have a new camping ground and new ablutions which they were still in the process of completing. If/once completed, they should be good. The sites each had a power point, braai and shade.

We visited the Popa Falls resort and also went back there for an evening meal. The resort is run by NWR and was great. The also have camping available.

From Popa falls we were travelling to Kasane and would spend a day in Chode (self drive) Chobe, as always, was great.
We camped in the town of Kasane and could hear the hippo in the river. In fact one came up and grazed quiet near to the tent.

From kanase we traveled to Francistown (after the mandatory stop at Nata Lodge). In Francistown we stayed at a very good and lovely B&B.

Our trip was coming to an end and from Francistown we were travelling home.

It was a amazing trip and we all really had great fun and enjoyed ourselves.

Here are some details regarding the accommodation as well as the fuel used.

Namibia August 2015 (part one)

Namibia August 2015 (part one)

We, myself, my wife, my brother and his wife, decided that we should travel around Namibia in August 2015. So the planning started long in advance and the accommodation was booked towards the beginning of 2015. Most of the places we traveled to were not full, so turns out advance bookings were not really required.

I was travelling with a Chevrolet Trailblazer 2.8 diesel 4x4 towing a large off road trailer. My brother, travels with a Suzuki Grand Vitara, petrol, 4x4 and tows a Venter off-road trailer.

A little more about the vehicles.

My trailer is fully equipped, with a Zero freezer (gas, 220 and 12v) in the nose cone. It has holders for 4 Jerry cans, 2 large water tanks (although not used because of the weight), fully configured with 220v power and a 12v battery system with integrated charger. The tent is an Echo tent which opens up down the side of the trailer and has plenty of room for standing, storage, as well as a large queen size bed at the top. It has a fully equipped kitchen with 2 plate gas stove, racks and shelves for groceries, pots and pans and crockery. The back door, when opened, has a full hanging storage contraption for all the cutlery that is required.
The spare wheel hangs in the outside of the back door.
My brother camps with an Oz tent and all the necessary items such as stretchers, mattresses, chairs, gas equipment etc.

In my vehicle I had 2 additional spare wheels (on rims), one each for the trailer and the car. Also had, 2 20L water bottles, full tool kit, puncture repair kit, snatch ropes and shackles, Camp Master fridge, dual battery system and 2 overnight bags.

As you can tell, were were not exactly travelling light !!

So, the day finally arrived and we left Johannesburg (and my brother and his wife from Pretoria) for Upington. Its quiet a long and boring road. But we stopped along the way in a very small town called Sannieshof. We were looking for some coffee and found a place which sold us coffee for ZAR 5.00 a cup, so 20 rand for 4 cups. Then we spotted a butchery which offered biltong for sale. When inside I found a small packet of Worcestershire Sauce sprinkle (never seen them before). The tannie said "once use use this stuff, you will never use anything else on your meat". So bought a packet (and my sister in law bought the biltong).

In Upington we stayed at a B&B on the banks of the Orange (Garip) river. A lovely place with 2 fully contained semidetached bungalows. The decks protruding out over the river. Very nice.

The next morning we were heading for Namibia and chose the Nakop border post as our port of exit/entry. Be warned, if you have any form of equipment with you the border officials require details (serial numbers, name, type, price etc) for each item - including the freezer contained within  the trailer etc. Its a long slow boring process because the border official gives you a form, which you have to complete. He then takes that form and types (very slowly) each item into the computer to enable him to print off a form which he stamps and you sign. (no one asked for the form, or even bothered with the equipment at any of the other 4 border posts that we traveled through - not even when we came back into SA). This is also the only border post where we also encountered a sniffer dog.

We stopped off in Karasburg to refuel and also to purchase some provisions, before progressing onto Hobas in the Ais-Ais National park.

Hobas is the "gateway" to the viewpoints for the Fisk River Canyon. I'm informed that this is second to the Grand Canyon in the USA (I don't know, so don't shoot the messenger if this is not true). Anyway, the Fish River Canyon is impressive. Hobas camp site is good, and the ablutions were very clean. On the way we also stopped off the the Canon Roadhouse for a bite to eat. This was good and the shop there has quiet a good stock of souvenirs etc. The restaurant is set around old vehicles which adds to the ambiance.

Camping at Hobas.

 Fisk River Canyon

Although we went to the view site at the start of the 5 day hike down into the canyon, we decided rather not to tackle that !!

We found that the dirt roads in Namibia to be in great condition. The roads so far were graded and had no corrugations. We also went down to the Ais-Ais hotel and camp site for a look around and some lunch and some fuel.

From Hobas we were heading to Aus and to have a look at the wild horses of the Namib. It was a very hot day, and we were luck to see only a few horses. However, its always amazing to see how they live together with the Gemsbok and other "wild" animals.

From here, we made our way to the small town of Aus, refueled and decided that it was time for something to eat. The only place that we could find was the local hotel. Wow, what a surprise - the place was really nice, friendly and we had a great lunch out on the deck.

We were heading for a camp site that my brother had heard about from somewhere (cant remember) and this took us along a very sandy road, the D707. The camp site promised to be unique, in that it was only one site, remote on the side of the mountain, with solar hot water shower and a flush toilet. Well, the "lodge" was really nothing to write home about. We got the key for the campsite and left, holding our breath, After a 10km drive along a jeep track, (opening and closing a few farm gates in the process) we arrived at the campsite. Wow, it was fantastic, to say the least. Our very own piece of paradise. We were really sorry that we only booked one night.

Leaving early the next morning, we were heading for the dunes. The place that we had chosen to camp was called Agama Camp. It was a long drive on Namibian dirt roads. However, the roads were in excellent condition.

Again, this campsite was fantastic. Large level sites with electric power. The Gemsbok came down and "grazed" through the campsites each evening. There was a nice cool swimming pool as well. Although it was called a river camp, it was down by the river but, of cause, there was no water. The only disappointment abut this camp was their buffet breakfast, which we chose to have on the morning of our departure. But, anyway, it was still breakfast.

We camped here a few nights and this was our base for exploring the dunes, Dune 45, Sossusvlei and Deadvlei. The most boring roan if the entire trip is the road from Sesriem to Sossusvlei. In fact, when we go back to Namibia, this is a part that we will quiet easily skip. the whole dune experience. I was so looking forward to it, but it ended up being a big disappointment. It was also very hot.

On the way to the dunes we stopped off at the Duwisib castle. Its an interesting place and we were advised that you could get a very good piece of Apple Strudel there. (but alas, you no longer can). We were, though, lucky enough to find a very friendly German fellow at a small restaurant not far from the castle, who had 2 pieces of Strudel "pie" left. So we sampled some of that. It was good !

Anyway, from Agama we progressed further North (oh the subject came up, is north always up, IE do you go Up North and Down South ? - Think about it for a while) and our destination was Swakopmund, via Solitaire, Kuiseb Canyon and Walvis Bay.

We stopped off in Solitaire where there is an amazing bakery and you can get almost any form of bakery item. We opted for the compulsory apple pie.

From here we progressed to Swakopmund via the canyon. The scenery along this part of the journey was great and varying. We even did see Giraffe in the distance !

Our destination was a super resort in Swakopmund - Alte Brucke. This resort camp site each have their own ablutions, electric power and braai area. Really very good.

We booked, in advance, a tour to see the Welwitschia plant. This tour was through a company which operates out of Swakopmund. We were the only 4 people on the tour, so were taken around in a double cab bakkie. The gentlemen that was our tour guide was really knowledgeable and the tour lasted the entire afternoon, into the early evening. We did see the plants, as well as many other interesting features of the desert. I can really recommend a tour like this.

We also took time to visit both Walvis Bay and Swakopmund as we were there for a few days. I must say that the bird life in Walvis bay was amazing, but the dorp left a lot to be desired. Swakopmund, on the other hand, was clean and pleasant to walk around in. Swakop was very cold and we had our winter woollies on.

From Swakop we had decided to travel along the coastal road to Henties Bay and then onto Brandberg (to try and see the desert elephants).

The morning we left there was a heavy fog/coastal mist and for some of the distance we could not even see the ocean. However, we made it to Henties (just a fishing village, really) and found a lovely little coffee shop to have a nice warm cup. We did however stop off at a shipwreck !!

It was then onto Brandberg White Lady Lodge where we encountered the wort stretch of corrugated road in the entire trip. Its really terrible. However, the lodge campsite was worth the grind. We camped in the dry river bed, basically. But we had a tap, some trees for shade as well as a braai area.The ablutions are heated by a "donky" and we always had hot water. When we arrived we did see elephant footprints all around the campsite and were advised that the desert elephants had been there a few days prior. We were hopeful.
We had a lovely 4 nights there.

We decided to drive the river bed in search of the desert elephants. the first day we drove down (whichever way that was) the riverbed. We did not deflate the vehicle tyres and we did not have any problems. We tool both vehicles, just in case. However, that direction did not result in any sightings. The next day we went up (which direction ?) in search again. We had driven quiet a long way and came to a weir in the river which necessitated us driving up the riverbank and over some rocks. We stopped and contemplated continuing or turning around. My brother then decided to walk down into the riverbed on the other side of the weir, and there they were. The herd !
We jumped back into the vehicles and headed up the river. We had found them, in among donkeys and cows. We sat for some time watching them drinking (yes they had found water) and playing. It was a wonderful experience.

We returned to the campsite for a peaceful evening.
The next day we had looked at the T4A map (which we had on the Garmin but also which  my brother had downloaded to his iPad and I also had a paper version) and found a back track through to Twyfelfontein and decided to take this. Although it was not really a hectic 4x4 track, in some places the sand was rather thick and the previous vehicles had made "axle twisters" of the sand. As a result we bounced our way along. But, it was a great drive and thoroughly enjoyable. Much better than the "boring" main roads.

From here, it was further north to Kamanjab